I had a pleasant surprise today when I found that the road from La Esperanza to Gracias is paved nearly all the way, cutting an anticipated four hour trip down to three. The 25 mile stretch from La Esperanza to the halfway point San Juan was so new that the painted lane markers couldn't have been more than a week old. For the locals this must make their lives a bit easier, at least for getting around more conveniently. And it occurred to me that with this new road, the area suddenly goes from being very underdeveloped, to having one of the best roads in all of Central America--a "first world" perk!
I'm realizing now that my Lonely Planet guide definitely needs an updated edition, at least for this part of Honduras, since their stated travel times around are no longer valid. And whereas three or four years ago, when my edition of LP's Central America on a Shoestring was published, there were no hotels in San Juan, today I counted three as we passed through.
How quickly things can change, even in a very impoverished place like western Honduras.
Gracias is a lovely town but much hotter than in La Esperanza. I'm staying at an excellent place, the Hotel Guancascos, which is perched on a hill overlooking the town and features a large terrace restaurant. I will stay here for at least two nights which will take me to Sunday July Fourth. I now have just a little less than two weeks--about 12 days--to get back to Guatemala City.
Showing posts with label La Esperanza. Show all posts
Showing posts with label La Esperanza. Show all posts
Friday, July 2, 2010
Thursday, July 1, 2010
La Esperanza
There were no rains today and the sun came out for first time in many days, so the bumpy road was relatively dry and hazard free all the way to La Esperanza. The Lonely Planet tells me that this town of 6000 is the "highest in Honduras" so I expect the weather to be chilly tonight.
Despite the fact that this town is smaller than Marcala, it seems to be more prosperous. Some of the streets are recently paved and there are a number of thriving markets here. And while there's a wider choice of ATMs, also there are many more hotels here than in Marcala. The reality of that fact seems to have driven the average room price down to around $12, which I will pay tonight.
Still there is a sense here of being almost completely outside the "civilized" world. On the Marcala-La Esperanza road there was nothing but high pine forest and a winding dirt road with almost no settlement between points. I had a bit of a secret thrill when I caught a ride in a micro with a woman driver--highly unusual in Central America. At the end of the journey I thanked and complimented her with my kindergarten Spanish: "Usted tienes el poder de mujer!" You have the power of woman! (for which I was rewarded with a hearty laugh).
Although I'll be comfortable here tonight, tomorrow's leg promises to be a bit wearing: it's four hours by bus to my next destination, the old colonial capital of Gracias. Between here and there is the town of San Juan which has no proper hotels, but my trusty LP says I can get a $4 per night homestay if I decide to stop.
Despite the fact that this town is smaller than Marcala, it seems to be more prosperous. Some of the streets are recently paved and there are a number of thriving markets here. And while there's a wider choice of ATMs, also there are many more hotels here than in Marcala. The reality of that fact seems to have driven the average room price down to around $12, which I will pay tonight.
Still there is a sense here of being almost completely outside the "civilized" world. On the Marcala-La Esperanza road there was nothing but high pine forest and a winding dirt road with almost no settlement between points. I had a bit of a secret thrill when I caught a ride in a micro with a woman driver--highly unusual in Central America. At the end of the journey I thanked and complimented her with my kindergarten Spanish: "Usted tienes el poder de mujer!" You have the power of woman! (for which I was rewarded with a hearty laugh).
Although I'll be comfortable here tonight, tomorrow's leg promises to be a bit wearing: it's four hours by bus to my next destination, the old colonial capital of Gracias. Between here and there is the town of San Juan which has no proper hotels, but my trusty LP says I can get a $4 per night homestay if I decide to stop.
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