We've had fairly steady rains for three days straight in northwestern Nicaragua, southern Honduras, and eastern El Salvador, but meanwhile I've managed to cover some miles the past two days, and I've fixed an itinerary for the coming week.
With the postponement of the Costa Rica leg, a new Honduran leg becomes feasible, even desirable. Apart from two recent transit trips through Choluteca and a brief visit to Copan Ruinas in 2008, this will be my first extended visit, so as always with a new place, I feel excited.
After a day or two in Perquin, to begin hopefully tomorrow, I can continue north on that road to Sabanetas at the Honduran border which will place me in western Honduras. The first big town on that road is Marcala.
Continuing further northwest will bring me to the the colonial town of Gracias, founded in the 16th century, another of the many Spanish capitals dotting Central America. The Lonely Planet tells me this region is seldom visited by the tourist, but that it's even more charming for that reason. This is relatively high country, surrounded by beautiful mountains and populated with friendly rural folk.
From Gracias the road winds up in Santa Rosa de Copan which-- the Lonely Planet warns--is still some hours from the famous Copan Ruinas, which is another primary destination for me. Though I visited this massive Mayan attraction two years ago, the archaeological site is so impressive and well preserved that I feel I should pass through again in order to get some photos.
From Copan Ruinas, the Guatemalan border is just ten minutes away, so I can cross back there, take a bus to Antigua, and hopefully have time to visit Chichicastenango before wrapping up this trip.
Showing posts with label Choluteca. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Choluteca. Show all posts
Saturday, June 26, 2010
Friday, June 25, 2010
To Perquin Via Choluteca, or From the North?
My next decision is one of logisitics: should I return to El Salvador right away from the east and proceed to Perquin from there? Or should I travel by way of the Honduran capital Tegucigalpa and approach Perquin from the north?
The Lonely Planet warns that because of a border dispute with Honduras, El Salvador does not have an immigration checkpoint on the road to Perquin from the north. This may not be a problem for me since technically I'm still traveling on my initial 90 day stamp I received from the Guatemalans at the start of my journey.
But the Planet warns that if I exit from another El Salvador checkpoint, I could conceivably face the issue of having formally exited Honduras without formally entering El Salvador. Because of this potential uncertainty, I'm probably inclined to enter El Salvador from the east, just to be on the better-safe-than-sorry side of things.
On the other hand, since I've now postponed Costa Rica until late this summer, that gives me more time now to visit Honduras for a bit, which I'd really like to do. Though I'd prefer to skip Tegucigalpa, it might be worth my while to explore some of the area to the north of El Salvador.
My original intent had been to use Honduras as a transit point between destinations, but now that the option is open, it seems a shame to completely pass on by.
Thus I'll be busy with my guidebooks tonight to fix some alternate plans.
The Lonely Planet warns that because of a border dispute with Honduras, El Salvador does not have an immigration checkpoint on the road to Perquin from the north. This may not be a problem for me since technically I'm still traveling on my initial 90 day stamp I received from the Guatemalans at the start of my journey.
But the Planet warns that if I exit from another El Salvador checkpoint, I could conceivably face the issue of having formally exited Honduras without formally entering El Salvador. Because of this potential uncertainty, I'm probably inclined to enter El Salvador from the east, just to be on the better-safe-than-sorry side of things.
On the other hand, since I've now postponed Costa Rica until late this summer, that gives me more time now to visit Honduras for a bit, which I'd really like to do. Though I'd prefer to skip Tegucigalpa, it might be worth my while to explore some of the area to the north of El Salvador.
My original intent had been to use Honduras as a transit point between destinations, but now that the option is open, it seems a shame to completely pass on by.
Thus I'll be busy with my guidebooks tonight to fix some alternate plans.
In Choluteca Everyone Wears Honduran Blue
I'm writing from Choluteca, Honduras where I just watched perhaps the most exciting 0-0 draw ever between lowly Honduras, fighting for its life in the World Cup against European bigshots Switzerland. Today's prime time match comes after another hard-fought 0-0 contest between Portugal and Brazil this morning.
In Chinandega, Nicaragua where I saw the Brazil match, everything in town stopped while people gathered in the cafes to watch perennial favorites Brazil.
The Honduras match was just beginning as I crossed the border this afternoon. Though I don't know enough about the standings to report much here, I'm pretty sure that Honduras's valient effort today won't help it to gain a spot in the "knock out" round. But boy! The last 20 minutes or so, which I watched in the lobby of my hotel with some locals, was non-stop action, back and forth across the field, as both teams expended their utmost as if it was the most important match in the world.
Afterwards, when it was done, the players lying on the field collapsed in utter exhaustion, the quiet streets of this southern Honduran town filled with locals going about their business, many of them dressed in their team's blue jerseys.
In Chinandega, Nicaragua where I saw the Brazil match, everything in town stopped while people gathered in the cafes to watch perennial favorites Brazil.
The Honduras match was just beginning as I crossed the border this afternoon. Though I don't know enough about the standings to report much here, I'm pretty sure that Honduras's valient effort today won't help it to gain a spot in the "knock out" round. But boy! The last 20 minutes or so, which I watched in the lobby of my hotel with some locals, was non-stop action, back and forth across the field, as both teams expended their utmost as if it was the most important match in the world.
Afterwards, when it was done, the players lying on the field collapsed in utter exhaustion, the quiet streets of this southern Honduran town filled with locals going about their business, many of them dressed in their team's blue jerseys.
Thursday, June 10, 2010
In Leon, Nicaragua (Day 18)
Visiting old colonial Leon is a no brainer for me since I consider myself to be a ¨collector¨ of colonial cities in Spanish America. Among the attractions here is the largest cathedral in Central America but the central district is dotted with surprising old buildings from history.
I decided at the last minute yesterday to forgo Perquin and focus on making some miles toward Costa Rica. A couple buses got me to the Honduras border at El Amatillo, and the crossing was relatively hassle free.
On a very hot day I caught the slow bus for a 2 hour long trip to Choluteca in southern Honduras. This is cowboy country with plenty of cows, horses, and the men who ride and drive them. By now we´re also out of volcano territory and in a dryer landscape marked by short trees and scrubgrass.
Choluteca, the largest town in this part of Honduras, had everything I needed within a block of my hotel, itself not far from the bus station. Restaurants, internet, and gloriously an espresso shack! This morning I had the best coffee I´ve tasted since way back in Ataco, El Salvador. Buen sabor!
Much needed aircon and not so needed TV were cut off last night with sudden thunderstorms which cooled the area considerably.
South of Choluteca on a microbus this morning the landscape changed yet again into a much more lush version of 5 or 6 different shades of green. Cloud cover kept temperatures bearable for the travel.
The Nicaragua border at Guasaule was mercifully also very easy to cross without much bureaucratic fuss. Seven bucks and I was in for 30 days, though the experience was marred slightly when I was grossly overcharged for a cyclo taxi. Yet it´s the first time in 18 days that I´ve been grossly overcharged for anything, so I reckon I´m doing alright.
Another fast microbus took me to Chinandega where I connected for my final bus to Leon which is about 60 miles northwest of Managua. The countryside here changes yet again with 3 or 4 massive volcanos visible in the distant clouds. It´s still cowboy country but the land is much less dry than in southern Honduras and the soil appears to be very rich. Viva la cultura de los vaqueros. . .
Leon is a premier destination for me, along with Tortuguero and Caribbean Panama, so I´m privately celebrating my arrival here. I was so charmed by my short walk around today, I´m sure I´ll stay at least 2 or 3 days.
I have just 34 days to get back to Guatemala. In the week ahead I plan to hit Masaya, Granada, Rivas and San Juan del Sur before I go to Costa Rica perhaps a week from today.
I decided at the last minute yesterday to forgo Perquin and focus on making some miles toward Costa Rica. A couple buses got me to the Honduras border at El Amatillo, and the crossing was relatively hassle free.
On a very hot day I caught the slow bus for a 2 hour long trip to Choluteca in southern Honduras. This is cowboy country with plenty of cows, horses, and the men who ride and drive them. By now we´re also out of volcano territory and in a dryer landscape marked by short trees and scrubgrass.
Choluteca, the largest town in this part of Honduras, had everything I needed within a block of my hotel, itself not far from the bus station. Restaurants, internet, and gloriously an espresso shack! This morning I had the best coffee I´ve tasted since way back in Ataco, El Salvador. Buen sabor!
Much needed aircon and not so needed TV were cut off last night with sudden thunderstorms which cooled the area considerably.
South of Choluteca on a microbus this morning the landscape changed yet again into a much more lush version of 5 or 6 different shades of green. Cloud cover kept temperatures bearable for the travel.
The Nicaragua border at Guasaule was mercifully also very easy to cross without much bureaucratic fuss. Seven bucks and I was in for 30 days, though the experience was marred slightly when I was grossly overcharged for a cyclo taxi. Yet it´s the first time in 18 days that I´ve been grossly overcharged for anything, so I reckon I´m doing alright.
Another fast microbus took me to Chinandega where I connected for my final bus to Leon which is about 60 miles northwest of Managua. The countryside here changes yet again with 3 or 4 massive volcanos visible in the distant clouds. It´s still cowboy country but the land is much less dry than in southern Honduras and the soil appears to be very rich. Viva la cultura de los vaqueros. . .
Leon is a premier destination for me, along with Tortuguero and Caribbean Panama, so I´m privately celebrating my arrival here. I was so charmed by my short walk around today, I´m sure I´ll stay at least 2 or 3 days.
I have just 34 days to get back to Guatemala. In the week ahead I plan to hit Masaya, Granada, Rivas and San Juan del Sur before I go to Costa Rica perhaps a week from today.
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