There were no rains today and the sun came out for first time in many days, so the bumpy road was relatively dry and hazard free all the way to La Esperanza. The Lonely Planet tells me that this town of 6000 is the "highest in Honduras" so I expect the weather to be chilly tonight.
Despite the fact that this town is smaller than Marcala, it seems to be more prosperous. Some of the streets are recently paved and there are a number of thriving markets here. And while there's a wider choice of ATMs, also there are many more hotels here than in Marcala. The reality of that fact seems to have driven the average room price down to around $12, which I will pay tonight.
Still there is a sense here of being almost completely outside the "civilized" world. On the Marcala-La Esperanza road there was nothing but high pine forest and a winding dirt road with almost no settlement between points. I had a bit of a secret thrill when I caught a ride in a micro with a woman driver--highly unusual in Central America. At the end of the journey I thanked and complimented her with my kindergarten Spanish: "Usted tienes el poder de mujer!" You have the power of woman! (for which I was rewarded with a hearty laugh).
Although I'll be comfortable here tonight, tomorrow's leg promises to be a bit wearing: it's four hours by bus to my next destination, the old colonial capital of Gracias. Between here and there is the town of San Juan which has no proper hotels, but my trusty LP says I can get a $4 per night homestay if I decide to stop.
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